Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

Thursday 2nd June; Zubiri to Pamplona; Km’s walked – 28,6; steps – 42053; floors – 120

We left Zubiri at about 8h30 with our picnic lunch (bought at the local little grocery store) in our packs.  I said goodbye to Babar (remember he carries my worldly belongings).  Ready for the walk of what was meant to be 21kms to Pamplona. The walk started off on a steep incline and we were climbing with the River Arga on our right. The river was our constant companion for the day, either next to us, below us or just across a road.

We walked for about half an hour through a quarry, passed a stunning waterfall, and then into some beautiful woods and through a small hamlet with geranium covered houses and cats. As we wandered through the woods we came across a note left for some pilgrims we’d met on Monday, reminding them to go see the waterfall.  We met up with Kimberley and Christie again. We walked a little more and came across a church, with a sign outside that said Bienvenido to the Abbey, come inside.  We did.  And guess what, it had been bought by two South Africans, Neil le Roux and his wife, and they were restoring it.  As we walked I and I heard his voice I knew he was South African. The middle of nowhere, a South African buys an Abbey to restore. Really?

Neil told us to visit Zabaldika, where there is a small church called Eglise de St Esteban, run by a community of Sacred Heart nuns. He explained that they allow you to climb the spiral staircase up to the bell tower and ring the bells, once! While you do it you say a Camino blessing.  We climbed an extremely steep little hill to get there and a very gracious nun opened up for us. Without speaking a word of English, she showed us around, allowed us access to the bells and we rung them. What a loud sound, but so enchanting. There was also a small Alburgue run by the community, it looked lovely and it felt so peaceful and right. For the first time I wished we could just stay where we were and not have to move on. The nun that opened gave us a little prayer to walk with, it is beautiful, and deserves posting and sharing (above). I am still contemplating the prayer and learning my lessons and I am sure they will be vast.
“At some point in the early morning we passed two young women walking the Camino backwards with their dog. The dog also had a backpack.  We had a picnic in a sunny spot for lunch and again Kimberley and Christie passed by.  We were really just soaking in the beautiful scenery and enjoying every step of the walk. By lunchtime we had done 7kms so theoretically we only had 14 to go. Little did we know what we were in for.  The 21km mentioned by Brierley was in fact to the far outskirts of Pamplona.  We walked and walked and walked.  Fortunately, Jacqui had read about a riverside alternative Camino route we could take (as opposed to walking through an industrial and built up area).  The walk along the river was lined with trees and benches and bridges. An inspired piece of town planning, and a scenic route which thank heavens made that walk seem a lot less painful.  It was 19h30 by the time we found our hotel in the Centre of the old town.  26kms, a lot more than 21.  That crown really worked its magic today. It kept me smiling and focused. Thank you Kyle, and thank you to you and Dad for encouraging me to wear it. I love it.

Pamplona looks charming.  We will explore on Friday as we have a rest day. Feet tired, belly full after a delicious dinner I closed my eyes thinking of the sounds of those beautiful bells and fell asleep.

Gifts today: The discovery of the Bells, the South African renovating the Abbey, the pure joy of a simple picnic, the blessing of having a good friend walk not only a few days with you but also those extra unplanned kilometers long day, the realization that I can do this…….