Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

THURSDAY 23rd JUNE 2016 – Manzilla de las Mulas to Leon (including FRIDAY 24th JUNE 2016 – rest day in Leon)

Km’s walked – 20.49 ; Steps – 30323 ; flights – 16 (THURSDAY)

Km’s walked – 10.75 ; steps – 15119 ; flights – 1 (FRIDAY – REST DAY)

“Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder!”  Anon

The walk to Leon is described by Brierley as being unattractive and maybe even dangerous, as you walk on and along a very busy road for a lot of of the time. Mr B actually suggests that many pilgrims take the bus for the 20 or so kilometers. We never considered that as we are walking to Santiago after all. We left earlyish (7h30).  The walk out of Manzilla was ok as we were chatting and distracted. I was also determined that I was gong to find the beauty in today’s walk after the tooth debacle yesterday. And there is no greater pleasure than the thought of an upcoming rest day when you have been walking for nine days without one. That can put a spring in anyone’s  step.



(A mural on a wall about 8kms out)

We soon met a Spaniard who was walking from Madrid to Leon, and then going back to work for four days in Madrid, flying back to Leon and walking to Santiago. He bowed to me when I told him I was South African and kept mentioning “Mandela” and how great he was. He really wanted to engage with us, he had 50 words of English, we have five of Spanish, so you can imagine. He did leave us with the lovely thought that the Camino, was not the French Way, not the Spanish Way, but the World Way. We all got that much. He eventually gave up and walked on.  What a pity.  I wish I had taken the time to learn some Spanish before I left. 

Jennie and I walked at quite a pace, and early on it got quite hot. As we got closer to Leon (read, you can see it in the distance it is still 10kms away), I decided it was time for the Sound of Music. I have the entire soundtrack on my phone as you probably know by now. The two of us proceeded to sing and dance and skip our way through almost the entire soundtrack. A Pilgrim coming up from behind us commented on our happiness and skipping. Before we knew it we were very close to Leon. Jennie thank goodness has a beautiful voice, because I certainly don’t, but it was such fun anyway and so lovely to meet someone that genuinely loves the Sound of Mucic movie and soundtrack. I would never have imagined that I would meet another Pilgrim to sing with me.

As we approached Leon which is a big town (pop; 130 000), we were ceremoniously greeted by the Emergency services sitting under a gazebo, handing out maps to Pilgrims and giving them directions. These people were not just doing. A job they were genuinely interested in us and gave us directions to out hotels which ended up being so great. They were charming and they too were collecting countries. They were so excited to meet a South African. 

It is interesting to mention that every time I tell someone I come from South Africa I get the most beautiful reaction. Everyone expresses such surprise, excitement and positivity. It is beautiful. 

Jennie’s hotel was on the outskirts and she left me to meet later. I followed the Camino arrows all the way to the Leon cathedral. The town was buzzing, it was 12h15 or so (yay, as most towns we enter are always quiet, dead almost). The walk in was really exciting and vibey. I got to my Hostal, unpacked and set off into the town. We had been told that Friday was a religious holiday (St Juan and St Pedro), and that there would be all kinds of festivities in town. 

Spain is interesting.  I should I say this part of it. It comes to life at 18h30. The entire town comes out to play.  The women dress unbelievably beautifully, their dresses and shoes come straight out of magazines. They start the paseo (the walk) at this time very evening and it is a sight to behold. The tapas bars overflow with people and energy and the whole town just feels like a party. And when there is a public holiday the next day I imagine the energy increases. 

Sitting at a side walk cafe and drinking a G & T (yes they are expensive, but more affordable than France)and just watching the people is a truly lovely experience. Of particular interest are the older people (not to offend anyone, but the grannies and grandpas), they dress up to the nines and it is beautiful to watch as the men “flirt” with the women and the women pretend not to notice, but they are so ready for this. The men laugh, the women giggle and everyone just enjoys the time outside. 

At some point in the evening I took the Petit Train around the town, and came across a parade of Giant Puppets. There were concerts and dance shows all over town. I couldn’t stay awake until the 11h30 fireworks. Just too tired. 

On Friday morning I only opened my eyes at 8h30. I couldn’t believe it. I was up and out by 9h30, and walked around a somewhat quiet town (all shops closed), but anticipation seemed to be in the air as people were waiting for something and jumping castles were being set up and roads closed. Soon I came across a Salvation Army parade. Everyone was waiting for something to happen.  I moved on.

I visited the Leon Cathedral, which is magnificent. My photos do it no justice. The stained glass windows are spectacular and the they create amazing light as the sun shines through them. 

I met Jennie for lunch ( we had agreed that a long lunch would be lovely for a change). We had a delicious meal, and really good wine (a dry white supposedly house wine that set us back 14 Euros a bottle – we had two, we were there for three hours. We didn’t know when we ordered it that it was that price, but we should have known when weird the first sip. It just tasted too dawn delicious.

(These two young boys, Marco and Pedro, just had to chat to us in their best English.  They were charming)

After lunch we both had massages booked. I was sooooooooooo looking forward to that. It was a good massage and I fell asleep as one should. I went back to my hotel had a late siesta and woke up to walk the town at 20h30. I was going to stay in my room and rest and then I heard all the activity outside. I went for my own paseo, and what a beautiful walk it was. People were dressed up even better than yesterday and there were dancing concerts and musicians everywhere. The town was buzzing and so alive and vibrant. I even got a little traditional dance with an old man, that smiled and smiled. Oh how I love stumbling on a festival when I am on holiday.



I found a sidewalk cafe on the main drag, where everyone walks and ordered a G& T, and just watchd everyone walk by. Leon is a beautiful town (City), with beautifully dressed people, flowers everywhere and an energy that is infectious. I walked a round with a permanent smile. I left for my hotel at 23h30.  I want to walk at 6h30 tomorrow.

CAMINO GIFTS; Jennie’s company and mutual love of Sound of Music on a tough walk, my massage on a public holiday, the joy of just watching people be and enjoy their town, a beautiful Cathedral that makes you realize how amazing the world can be, and the reminder that  you should always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.