Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

For those of you who recall the sitcom on TV from the early 90’s about Balkie Batakamos and cousin Larry, you will remember Balkie often saying … ‘I have no words in my mouth!” Often in wonder and amazement as he could not believe what America presented. These words describe my emotions and sentiments as I wandered through the streets of St Jean Pied de Port (SJPdP) today. This is all like a fairytale, and I even have a crown. I cannot quite believe I am here and that I am about to embark on this epic adventure.

A cautionary note for the cynics reading the post, I intend to write both a travel log and reflections on my journey, so if you tend to the faint hearted side when it comes to feelings,I suggest you skip the reflections or the blog completely, as I may have no words in my mouth, but I have many in my head that may have to be written. I will try to warn you.

Arrived in SJPdP after being picked up at the airport by my shuttle company. A charming young man whose English was not great but about a million times better than my French. My brain seems to have forgotten that I son in fact know at least 20 French words and can generally get by, but not today. Just ordering lunch was a challenge, and I did not like it a lot.

My hotel is Hotel Rumancho. It is charming and right it the heart of the action on Rue de Espangne. On Monday I will walk out of my hotel and and three meters later be on the road to Santiago. 

I was not here foe five minutes when the first gift of the Camino arrived in the form of a big American man who spontaneously helped me carry my suitcase up two flights of stairs to my room. He happened to be in the reception and just got up to help.  

For those of you wondering about the hotel and the suitcase, let me declare up front that I am an ensuite pilgrim and decided way back when I knew I was going on this journey that I would stay in B & B’s or modest hotels. My suitcase will be transported daily and I will be taking my time to enjoy every step of my journey. This trip is a gift to myself and a celebration of a beautiful fortunate life so far that I am grateful for and want to celebrate.

(Warning to the the ones who can’t handle soppy) Once I had checked in and unpacked as I like to do, I set off to explore SJPdP, in seconds I stumbled on the Pilgrims office and walked in to get my Pilgrim’s passport and my first stamp. For those that don’t know, to receive your Compostela in Santiago (the certificate that certifies that you actually the Camino) you get stamps in every town to prove you have done it. Imagine what it looks like after 35 days of walking. A small thing but so important to a Pilgrim. Well, that volunteer that helped me must have thought I was a tiny bit crazy because as she explained everything to me in broken English (she spoke, Portuguese, French and a little English, wow), I just welled up with tears and couldn’t hold them back.  I was so overwhelmed by the whole thing that I walked around in a daze with tears streaming and jumping little jumps of joy for at least an hour.

Lunch was had a lovely restaurant on the river and was expensive but good. On my way back from lunch I walked towards a church and heard beautiful singing so I did as most inquisitive people do I went in and sat down and said a little prayer ecstatic to be there with the beautiful singing ….. And then I opened my eyes and in the front of the church was a coffin, I had gate crashed a funeral. What to do ….. ???? I said another little prayer of forgiveness this time and promptly got up genuflected and walked out.  Oh my word, the joy of travel.

SJPdP is beautiful. It has a lovely spirit about it. Tomorrow I will walk the town, the walls and see spend time reflecting on my Purpose for this pilgrimage. I think I am embarking on something that is almost unreal and “fairytaleesque”.  Thank goodness for my crown……there are no words in my mouth!