Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

MONDAY 6th June 2016 – Estella to Los Arcos

Km’s walked – 23,8; steps – 33216; flights – 28

DAY 8 of actual walking.

The Camino just continues to surprise me.  Shortly after I “kissed” Babar goodbye, I stumbled on a small grocery store in Ayegui ( a hamlet just outside of Estella), I bought some goats cheese and some mineral water and the lovely young man at that served me gave me a gift of some slices of bruschetta in a bag clearly prepared for Pilgrims. So touched. I walked on for a few kilometers and before 10am I came across the now famous (on the Camino anyway), Fuente del Vino at Bodegas Irache, a free wine fountain where “pilgrims can fortify themselves for the journey ahead at the generosity of the Bodegas”. I of course half filled a little water bottle to fortify myself later, 10am is too early for wine even for me. A few kilometers later I found another gift into the form of a bar serving CAPPUCINOS, whooooo hoooo. 

I passed a few lovely villages along the way, and again the views were unbelievable and the scenery just other worldly.  But I guess when you are on holiday everything is just beautiful. Flowers and poppies everywhere. What is noteworthy is the number of little chapels on high hills along the route.  I kept thinking those medieval priests must have really wanted people to pay for any sins by first trekking up a hill to church before even doing any hail Mary’s. 

About 15km into the walk on a somewhat HOT but thankfully overcast day, I turned a corner and there was another Camino angel, Cafe Movil.  A mobile cafe serving all kinds of good stuff in the middle of nowhere after a few tough hills. I bought a Aqua Minerale con gas and set up my picnic.  What a feast it was, and how lovely to watch all the  Pilgrims so excited to see this oasis in the middle of nowhere. I listened to Chris Rea and Diana Krall on and off all day. Passed an Italian couple who asked if it was Chris Rea, and who took my photo above, else I’d have no pics of myself. 

At some point after lunch I heard some music and believe it or not there ahead of me ere a violinist and an accordion player.  Like really!!!!!!! In the middle of the Camino, they were playing for us.  We of course wee obligated to pay a few centimes, but anyway it was awesome. As an aside, Just by the way people actually leave messages for people along the way. It’s like times of old, no one takes them.

I eventually stumbled on Los Arcos, and again had to navigate my way to my hotel with noooooooo directions and a cr@#@#@# map from Follow the Camino (everything else has been awesome so I guess a map problem can be overlooked even for Princess Fanny de Gama).  Found Hotel Suxuete, just out of town. Lovely. Went into little village for dinner at Restaurant Monaco.  Oh my word, a three course delicious meal, of Gazpacho soup, Grilled salmon, Creme caramel, and nice wine and sparkling water for the fantastic sum of TWELVE EURO.  Unbelievable. I walked back to my hotel content and excited for Tuesday.  I got to my room and sat drinking a glass of wine looking out of the window and got eh most beautiful view of the Church spire including a Stork nest with Stork and babies en plus.  Fell asleep happy and smiling.

Camino gifts today: My songs to start the day, finding my hotel despite directions or lack of, those blue butterflies following me and popping up as I needed them, the mobile cafe just when I needed it.