Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

(This photo is meant to be at the end, it’s the Logrono church, blog has a life of its own)

TUESDAY 7th June 2016 – Los Arcos to Logrono (And a rest in Logrono for the 8th June)

Km’s walked – 32.25; Steps – 42041; floors climbed – 83

I was packed and ready, crown in tact to leave by 7h30.  Babar was bulging and I didn’t even have to move her.  There were strict instructions to leave bags in the room for the courier company.  I left Los Arcos early due to the 30 plus kilometers I needed to walk today, and we know by now, it’s always plus three. 

It felt good to have 18 Km’s done by 11h00.  Again the Camino did not disappoint. The early morning light was lovely and the quiet played a beautiful sound in my ears. ONly a few pilgrims along the way.  I soon came across the same Italian couple that I had “followed” on Monday. The path was beautiful with limited shade and fountains to be found.  Flowers everywhere. Butterflies fluttering around me all the time, as though the same two were following me (I wonder if those are my Camino Angels). Brierley (the guru guide) had warned that it could be hot, no shade and little water so go prepared. I did. As much as he does prepare your brain, it’s still quite tough when it’s hot. You have to keep reminding yourself why you are here and how blessed you are.

It was hot, at least 33 degrees. Thank goodness for my Big Blue wide brimmed hat, that is not very pretty, but so effective. When my spirits waned I switched on my Springsteen songs for a few minutes and all was good for a while. I kept coming across a group of young Italians (at least 7 of them all walking together chatting loudly). I would be ahead of them then behind them, most of the day. I also kept seeing the Italian couple, I wish I had asked them to take a photo of me again. I have no photos of myself from Tuesday.

I stopped to look backwards often (something Pilgrims forget to do this in pursuit of the next destination), endless views and beauty wherever I looked. I stopped often to drink water and to take my shoes off to rest and air my feet.  At some point I came across another musician (playing guitar).  He was chatting to all the Italians.  It was lovely to stop and rest my feet. I’m wondering about these musicians, I never budgeted to pay for the pleasure every day (but then I normally have to pay to go to the toilet and now I don’t,so fair trade off I would say).  After climbing a somewhat steep hill, at the top I came upon Pepe.  He had a mobile cafe perched right there and sold cool drinks and food.  I sat for a while had a Aqua mineral con gas and he stamped my Credential (my Pilgrim passport, which is looking so good with stamps) and wrote me a little “love letter”.  He had such good energy, I gave him one of my little South African Flag magnets I am hauling along.  He asked to kiss me and somehow I got kissed on both cheeks. A lovely haven again in the middle of nowhere.

I got to Viana at 13h00, with Logrono (which has an accent on the second o that I can’t do) in sight, but 12kms away. Viana is smallish (pop 4000), beautiful historic town with a magnificent Church as its Centre piece. The churches really take on a beauty of their own at different times of the day depending on the sunshine. I decided to take lunch in a cafe just under the cathedral and had two glasses of wine (mistake) and a mixed salad and mineral water all for Eight Euro. I lingered for an hour and decided to leave.  I met Laura a pilgrim I had chatted briefly to in Estella (Mexican American), lovely person, good energy. We chatted briefly. She wants to come to SA. We exchanged Facebook details. She mentioned that her and her walking friend had decided not to walk between 14h30 and 17h00.  I debated it briefly and then set off at 14h30. Not so clever. I walked for about 30 mins and the found a tree with a bench under it amazingly (Camino Angels again), and I sat lay down on the bench, tied by bag to myself and dosed for about 15 minutes. Then sense prevailed and I took off again.

I’m not going to lie, the last six kilometers were tough. HOT, HOT HOT! I kept having visions of what happens to me at Comrades when I’m too hot and then kept scolding myself for being negative. Luckily the beauty around me prevailed and kept reminding me of how blessed I am.

As I got to the outskirts of Logrono I came across a little shade and decided to stretch a bit, teh body was feeling a tad tired, a pilgrim passed by and said to me in very broken English, “Pain gives birth to pleasure!”. Is that not too lovely? I got another burst of energy and passed another PIlgrim who I had seen on and off for two days, a woman with pink hair ( it’s her crown I guess), I greeted her in the pilgrim way, “Hola, Buen Camino!”,  and introduced myself by extending my hand.  She was reluctant as she said her hands were sweaty, I said absolutely.  Lucie from Italy introduced herself,and I walked on.  

Entering Logrono over the medieval (rebuilt now) bridge, I found my Accomodation no problem, whew! My instructions were saying go South (might as well be in Spanish), but I got here without deviation so quite proud actually. That crown is working wonders. 


Hostal Numantina is lovely.Clean, spacious and modern with a view over a lively street. Great for a rest day.  I found a restaurant for dinner.  A Menu Del Dia for Twelve Euro and had, mixed salade, Calamari in black ink, and dessert (which I did not have) and wine. So delicious! 

As I closed my eyes the realization that I had a rest day made me smile.  My body needed it.

Camino gifts; my songs, my feet feeling good, my constant butterfly companions, my FaceTime what Warwick, news that Kyle and Julia were all good in Vietnam,  my amazing new skill of finding places

WEDNESDAY 8TH JUNE – REST DAY – KMS 4.5

Today I rested. I did my laundry, and by the way found my way there with a map.  Kept my feet up most of the day. Neede that, body feeling a tad tired. Theresa a festival in Logrono – the festival of St Barnabes – and everyone is walking around in medieval costumes. Found a restaurant where I could watch everyone doing the paseo (eveningwalk). Dinner of calamari starter, grilled salmon and wine – delicious. 

Logrono is beautiful. It has a lovely energy and people are friendly. It is also a university town, and a population of 122000. Lovely churches all over and the old town very vibey. 

Been thinking a lot about a lovely Pilgrim I met in Orrison, Kimberly. She’s injured and has had to rest for a few days, she’s so sad. Trying to keep her motivated with what’s apps. I hope her for heals. Christie her “Camino buddy” had to move on. Must be tough for her. I’m saying a blessing for her and for me before I go to sleep. 

Early to bed.  I have 30 Km’s plus tomorrow. 

Note the photos of the water fountains and Camino markers in every village and town. To be explained soon. If you’re in Facebook there are lots of pics there too.