Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

FRIDAY 10th JUNE 2016 – Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada

Km’s walked – 23,5 ; Steps taken – 35319; Flights -14

DAY 10 of walking

“We are speeding up our lives and working harder, in a futile attempt to slow down and enjoy it!” Paul Hawkin

Bierley’s reflection for the day reminded me as I woke up that I am here to slow down and notice everything around me. I was up at 5h00 so that Babra and I could leave at 6h00 for Santa Domingo de la Calzada. An early start I know but necessary with the heat we have had in the afternoons. I don’t often get up at 5am at home that is Warwick’s thing, but here I am on my glorious Camino (two months of holiday) and I’m up with the the birds. Amazing how easily we can change when we are on holiday.I mean imagine wearing a crown while walking anywhere at home.  

It was overcast so there was no glorious sunrise to reward us for the early wake up call, but the landscape rewarded us as it has every day. Babra who is a real chatterbox and clearly a morning person (me I need coffee first), asked an endless round of questions about me and my life as we walked. I stopped to take photos often as the light was interesting and the terrain was red clay. Poppies everywhere. There were a surprising number of Pilgrims out on the road so early which pleased me as now I might venture out this early on my own when I am alone again. 

All the chattering quickly put 6.5kms on lour feet and we walked into the tranquil village of Azofra, population 250, owing much of its existence to the Camino. We stopped at a cafe, where we ran into Ezekiel (from Brazil) and a few other Pilgrims we had seen the day before. We had a delicious Cafe con leche (coffee with milk or cuppacino as we like to say) and chatted with a few Pilgrims.  We of course aired our feet.  This according to Princess Fanny (from a book I read during my prep) is key to keeping your feet happy, unblistered and loyal to you. Every six Km’s or so I sit down wherever I am and take my socks and shoes off, give my feet a good rub, 10 mins of airing and then get back on the road. I go through another foot ritual when I get to my Hostal everyday. After showering, I dry my feet tenderly and apply antiseptic cream, and massage them and then apply a lovely cooling foot spray.  My feet are tired but happy. 

We got back on the road and very quickly “collected countries” (Babra’s words).  Within four kilometers we had spoken to Éva from Hungary, an accountant in a Bank in Budapest, Sean from Boston, USA (he didn’t talk much, except to tell me he had enough noise in his head so he didn’t need music). Federico came from Sardinia, an accountant.  Paul from Poland, a missionary (who I have seen a few times along the way). Helga, a 68 year old retired grandmother who has walked the Camino in stages back to front. Chin from Singapore (took our pic but couldn’t really communicate), and an Italian doing the Camino on Sultana, a horse. A couple from Reunion, who spoke French, and engaged very little. He was pulling a sort of mini wagon with all their baggage. Interesting people all, some English spoken, with Eva’s English being amazing. 

At some stage we passed through a place called Ciruena Opcion (both words are missing accents on them). The place had a golf course and many closed up, for sale condos. It was depressing.  The 2008 crash apparently caused all this.  Sad.  We had a coffee at the golf course and went on our way.

Santa Domingo popped up on the horizon, and Babra and I knew that goodbye was close.  I got all teary and she told me that I to had been an angel she needed it.  As she had been for me. We walked into the village and Babra asked to buy me a drink before we parted.  She had soup and I had calamari tapas and we had red wine. She chatted for a bit, paid and then left after introducing me to “Jane”, who I a few moments later realised was Jenny. I was really sad to say goodbye to Babra, but luckily I knew, Sarah, my friend from SA was on her way for a few days. Jenny is from a town near Chicago but has a parish in a little village in Illinois.  She lost her husband to cancer in September 2015 and her daughter of 13 is joining her to walk into Sanitago from Sarria.  A lovely human being with another sad but possibility filled story to tell.

I found my hotel.  Again charming, family owned and just charming. I went to buy some some lunch for Saturday did my laundry and then came back to hotel Pedron I to find Sarah. We hugged and practically did a dance of joy. She got a separate room from me which was nice but it would be nicer to share.  Hello my friend, I feel so blessed you could join me.
We met Jennie for dinner and ended up having three glasses of red wine for 2.70 Euro for all three.  We had been approached by an older man telling to us to g to his restaurant earlier and we went there.  Climbin the stairs to the restaurant was weird as it felt like we were going into an apartment block. We met a man on the second floor who in Spanish said “no not here!”, rang a bell, and suddenly doors were opening and lights went on and we were in a restaurant. Hildago.  On trip advisor nogal. We had a reasonably good three course dinner for 12 Euro and went back to our hotel to sleep. Sarah is here and I’m so exited again to spend quality time with my friend. Wow!!!

Babar, and new companion Monkey (Sarahs’s bag) were ready and a packed to leave at 7h00. Adios dear Babra, Hola precious Sarah. 

Camino gifts; Babra’s company for two days, the joy of an early start, the scenery as we walked, finding a laundromat and doing three days of washing, and SAHAH arriving. An understanding with deep compassion for those I have met with stories to tell and a reminder that  I AM SO BLESSED AND GRATEFUL for my beautiful family, and precious life.