Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

MONDAY 13th June 2016 – San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

Km’s walked – 32 ; steps – 44649 ; floors – 48 

TOTAL KM’s WALKED – 394 (including town walks)

“Man cannot stand a meaningless life” – Carl Jung

After making sure Babar (who by the way seems to be getting heavier every day) was safely in the reception, we set off at 6h15 for a long 32 km walk to Burgos, crown, and Tinkerbell in tow.  The weather was overcast and quite nippy.  We were not complaining as the cool weather is preferable. Beatiful scenery all around, and lovely light. A quiet contemplative first 6kms.

We walked through Ages, it was was quaint and pretty, but completely closed up.  We continued to Atapuerca (pop 200). Apparently this title village is an UNESCO world heritage site as by all accounts our earliest ancestors lived here, (I am sure The Cradle of Human Kind in Sterkfontein in South Africa would disagree), and they were cannibals. The actual site of discovery of the earliest human existence in Europe is 3kms off the Camino so we didn’t detour, but we found a lovely open Cafe in Atapuerca and had a break and much deserved cafe con leche.

As we left the village and started our “climb” up towards Cruz de Matagrane, we passed a sheep farm, the gate was opened and a dog started directing the sheep out of the enclosure onto our pathway. There were at least 100 sheep.  A number of sheep had bells on, and as we climbed up the Sierra Atapuerca (1080m), on an extremely rocky pathway, the sheep and the meditative sound of their bells accompanied us. What a treat!  The dogs took an interest in us and came across to investigate what we were up to. The walking path was tough on the feet, but the scenery was spectacular. Fields of flowers, light falling gently on the wheat and barley fields, with poppies everywhere.

We took a recommended detour down to Villaval, a remote almost deserted but beautiful village.  The very steep path we walked was made easier by the surroundings.  We had a little snack at the bottom just outside the village.  Sittng there at the crossroads of the path we had taken and the other path, we got to greet a few Pilgrims and “collect some more countries”.  We “collected” Argentina, Belguim, France, and of course we bumped into Frans the lovely German guy who keeps shouting out Princess Stephany, and hugging me. We met a Belgian family cycling. The kids were 8 and 10, and apparently they had been cycling for six months and were on their way to Switzerland via Santiago. They plan to finish in October. How amazing is that?

A lunch stop in Castanares after a long walk on hard stony ground next to the Burgos airport. Ezekiel (from Brazil) arrived at the cafe and joined us for a drink. We then started the great trek into Burgos.  Fortunately, the river pathway alternative as suggested in Brierley provided shade, trees, flowers everywhere and river views and sounds. The only irritation was the “fluff” from the Cottonwood trees flying everywhere and making us sneeze and my eyes water. It was hotish, and the Km’s were mounting and the “fluff”, which I named tree gremlins, was really driving me crazy.  I spontaneously started “stick/sword fighting” the little gremlins. Sarah nearly fell over laughing. How can anything so pretty be so horrible? That white “snow” in the photo below is actually the evil stuff that attacks your eyes and nose. 

We found our hotel miraculously as again we had no directions. At first we walked into a hotel we thought was ours and I was thinking, “oh no this is not it”, it was not nice.  The woman giggled and told us wrong place. Our Hotel Forum Evolution ended up being gorgeous, and a real spoil and treat after a long walk. We had a picnic on the bed, and then had a little siesta.  

After showering and dressing up we went for dinner in the lovely city of Burgos (pop 140 000). Gorgeous people, beautiful buildings and a “Napolean” Plaine tree lined promenade. Dinner was good.  Sleep came quickly, and dreams of a day of rest tomorrow.

Camino gifts: those sheep bells escorting us up the hill, a beautiful comfortable hotel, a cafe owner that allows us to eat our own picnic at his outside table ( we bought a beer and wine), the miraculous discovery of our hotel despite no directions. Frans, popping out of nowhere and asking for my email address.