Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

TUESDAY 21st JUNE 2016 – Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

Km’s walked – 18,33 ; Steps taken – 25811 ; flights – 1 (and that was up to my room)

“Everything is within walking distance if you have the time!” Steven Wright

STEPS TAKEN SINCE THE 30TH MAY INCLUDING TOWN WALKS – 734 958

KILOMETERS WALKED SINCE 30TH MAY INCLUDING TOWN WALKS – 518,6 KM’S

I left at 6h45 this morning after somehow managing to lug Babar down four flights of stairs (I include a picture of him for reference, so you get the picture how heavy that old bag is). The light was lovely, and the morning was cool. By 10 am however it was cooking. 

I added up all my steps and kilometers today and gosh I am quite pleased with myself. And luckily all is good with my body albeit that I feel a couple of pains here and there,but nothing to hectic and that I cannot handle. 

Today (which of course is not done yet), was flat again, and it was a long straight narrow path that felt like it went on forever. Joyfully, I am entertained by flowers (new species every day), butterflies, lizards, Ravens, sparrows, and the odd pilgrim. When you are asking alone for so long in the heat, there is the slight temptation to be negative.  I think I am saved every day by those angels in the form of butterflies and birds that gently remind me how fortunate I am to be here and that all too soon I will be done with this amazing journey. My crown also reminds me every now and again that I am so lucky by pinching my head a bit when I’m being a bit whiny internally. Good lucky crown.

Brierley (Mr B from now on) suggested that there is a Green path (an alternative path), and that it is in fact the original Roman road that has been walked upon for centuries. Jennie and I have sort of decided that we will take these paths wherever possible and practical.  Sometimes they are a bit longer and the markings not great. Last night we discussed taking the path (we generally don’t start together as Jennie likes to have breakfast and sometimes it is served later, and I like to start early), and it sounded a lot more scenic than the Pilgrim path adjacent to the highway.  Sadly though, my South African fear instinct kicked in and I was the only person on the road that I could see when it came time to choose the route and I chickened out (it was also a 20 km plus route with no fountains, and no cafes or towns). I think I will stop being a “woes” ( a baby for those that don’t know “woes”), this is my glorious Camino. To be fair though, the road is not as bad as described by Mr B. It does run parallel to the highway, but there is a field, and another little road between you and the highway (about 120 meters away). And the entire pathway has trees planted along it that are still growing but here and there they provide a bit of shade.  Just a long flat, hot, glaring white gravel road surrounded by Broom, and many other flowers.

I hardly saw anyone today on the road.  I collected Australia (Anabel), and Spain (no English to get a name). I walked the first ten kilometers in two hours and when I got to Bercianos del Real Camino, there was a lovely cafe for me to rest and to have my cafe con leche.  I splashed out and had a toasted ham and cheese sandwich (which gave me heartburn for the rest of the day).  The cafe was light and modern, and was playing Norah Jones, and it felt like I could just sit and sit. I ended up sitting for an hour, shoes and socks off, feet up.  Glorious!

I walked the next few kilometers listening to my Warwick songs and singing to the Sound of Music. I think I might need the Wizard of Oz too ( I will check on iTunes tonight). Got into El Burgo Ranero at 11h45, but could not check in until 13h00.  Sat at the restaurant on the street and had a G & T and a salade Mixte. At some point a loud hooting could be heard, an a large Grocery Truck came by. They stopped just near me and I ran to take a photo while they served some locals. A well kitted out truck with fresh fish and all.

A lovely hotel overlooking the main square and clearly the jaunt for locals, as it was buzzing below all afternoon.  Men playing dominoes, and lots of talking and laughing. No afternoon siesta for them or me. The lovely thing was I also saw and heard children playing in the school across the way. Spain’s little villages have been completely “free” of children when we walked through most of them, it’s quite disconcerting. 

CAMINO GIFTS: Sparrows keeping me company as I walked, the Broom everywhere keeping my thoughts on the beauty around me, that little cafe playing Norah Jones, just when I needed it, and my beautiful music keeping me company as I walked