Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

WEDNESDAY 22nd JUNE 2016 –  El Burgos Ranero to Manzilla de las Mulas

Km’s walked – 25.09 ; Steps taken – 35370 ; Flights – 7

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world!” Anon

We left El Burgos Ranero at 6h30. Jennie joined me as we had a picnic breakfast packed for us and she was happy to beat the heat. We had also planned to take the Brierley (Mr B) green route, which is the where the original Roman road was. We had to connect with the route about 8kms into the walk. Well, that was interesting.  We found the little deviation we had to take and then between Jennie and I (you may recall I have no ability to read a map), we managed to turn the wrong way. We were looking for a level crossing over the railway line, which nearly 2kms later still did not appear so we scrambled up the embankment to the railway tracks and over the tracks into thick waist high bush and down again, and had to “wade” our way through the grass.  I was beside myself, I am so afraid of snakes, and I had shorts on.  I could se insects on Jennie’s longs, so you can imagine what was going through my mind. I hate bushes and long grass, but today I walked for about 300 meters in waist high grass. Crazy stuff. Madness if nothing else. I had little itchy bites all over my feet, and my shoes and socks were covered in black jack prickly type things.

Below are some pics of the sunrise which was awesome, and of course my grass field ( you can see the railway line in the distance)

Today started out quite tough.  My crown (my tooth, not my princess crown) was loose, very loose.  It had been aggravating me for a few days, and I knew that I wold have to do something about it in Leon as it felt like it may be infected. I started out very positive that my tooth would be fine, but it got progressively looser through the morning. Needless to say I got more and more anxious and quieter and quieter. Poor Jennie, she really wanted to support me and quietly just walked on next to me. I made up my mind that when I got to Manzilla I would find a bus to Leon and find a dentist with the help of the company that have done all my Camino arrangements. I really didn’t enjoy the walk even though it was pretty and I was relieved to arrive at Manzilla de las Mulas.

In our best charade type Spanglish, we explained I needed a dentist.  The host raised his eyebrows in alarm and proceeded to tell us that they only had two dentists and they both did not work everyday. He knew the one was off today but maybe the other one (which happened to be 100 meters down the little street) could assist. I jsust left then and there to go and check if I could get help.  I got to the Clinic Dental and the door was closed and locked, but there was. Bell, I rang it my heart sinking as I knew I would have to bus to Leon and find a dentist there. Well, owner of wonders the Camino works it’s magic. A man opens the door, greets me, and asks if he can help. I explain I need a Dentist, he tells me she is in Leon. I must have looked completely distraught.  In very little English he manages to establish what my problem is and calls his wife the Dentist.  She says she can see me at 16h30.  I know there’s a bus I can take but before I can leave the man says “I live in Leon, I don’t normally go home for lunch, but today I will, I can take you to the clinic and you can catch the bus back!” I just start crying I’m so overwhelmed.  He bends down on one knee as I am sitting down, he looks me in the eye with a smile and says “It is ok, this is a small problem!” I laughed and could not stop thanking him. He told me to come back at 14h30 when he would leave for Leon.  

I get there 10 minutes early.  He gives me a bus time table and tells me he will show me where the bus station is in Leon. This amazing man, named Cesar Pialon, drives me to Leon, drops me at the clinic, tells me he will be back at 16h30 to explain to his wife and translate as she speaks no English. He shows me a cafe I can wait at. At 16h30 he comes back, he tells me that if I am done by 17h30 he will take me back, as he has an appointment at 18h00 back in Manzilla. His wife sees me quickly, fixes my tooth gives me all kinds of instructions in Spanish which he tries to translate. I hug her in tears, I pay 50 Euro for the cementing of my crown (I would have paid 100 if I had to) and Cesar drives me back to Manzilla. All before 17h30. So, another Camino angel appears to help me when I really needed it. Amazing.

Cesar below. What a delightful human being. He has done the Camino and says people were kind to him so he tries to be kind to people. 

I felt so back in the saddle and so happy, I walked past a hairdresser (Pelequeria) and asked if they could cut my hair. They did, for ten Euro. Just fabulous.

Cesar had recommended a restaurant in the little town that he said was not a Michelin star restaurant but was recommended in the Michelin guide. I decided I was going there. Jenie was in and off we went. We both decided no Pilgrim meal tonight and ordered off the a la carte menu. Wow. Jennie had a mushroom and Shrimp risotto and I had a calamari and pepper risotto with really nice Vinto Tinto Casa (house wine red). 

An anxiety filled day and eventful day turns into a beautiful day where I meet a new Camino angel. Sleep came easily and was good.

CAMINO GIFTS: definitely Cezar, and his dentist wife Melinda, Jennie’s lovely quiet support through the day, and the reward of a spectacular meal for very little