Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

SATURDAY 25TH JUNE 2016 – LEON TO VILLADANGOS Del PARAMO via Villar de Mazarife

Km’s walked – 27.2 ; steps taken – 38113 ; flights – 5

“Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift. That is why it is called the present.” Anon

(Above the Parador de San Marcos – in Leon – a parador is a luxury hotel located in a converted historic building or monastery – this one is ancient monastery)

I left Leon at 6h30.  A little nervous as I could hear the party goers coming home as I was getting ready to leave. A princess in her crown from South Africa walking the empty streets of a big city at dawn, definitely a first. I was a little wary as there were a few party goers and no one else. I walked over the Leon Puente and into not so pretty suburbia, where I luckily found an open cafe and had a delicious cafe con leche.

(The Puente rio Bernesca leaving Leon)

I walked alone for ages through  parts of town we’d never see as normal tourists, but become privy to when following the Camino arrows. I was determined that I was following Brierley’s “alternative route” today as the other route was along the N120, the highway to Santiago. I met Reeva as I crossed out of the suburbs.  A beautiful young woman who declared that she was an ex US Airforce soldier wh had served in Iraq and fixes aeroplanes. She was lovely, it was her first day of walking, she has 12 days to do a 14 day walk.  She seemed a little unsure, and followed me.  Even when I told her to carry on while I dilly dally taking my photos. She stuck by me.  She didn’t talk much, but quietly walked next to me.

So, I was determined to take the “alternative route”. I didn’t realize when I made this call, that the town the alternative route ended in was 5kms away from the town my beloved Babar was in. So, after a beautiful, scenic alternative route I got to Villar de Mazarife and then I got stuck. I asked some locals in my Spanglish, flashing Brierley around, and I managed to understand “walk, straight, turn right, then walk six to seven kilometers”. I thought I was going to punch something. A number if very kind locals along the way kept trying to make me turn back, as I was off the Camino. Anyway, there was nothing to be done but walk in 30 degree heat to Villadangos Del Paramo. All along a busy road, at some point I had a big spider on my shoe, I played John Denver  to keep me Company, all the time cursing Brierley but also telling myself the majority of the way had been on a beautiful route, much better than the highway.  By now you probably know that five kilometers is “nothing”, but when it comes at the end of 21kms, and your head is in the 21 km zone, it is too much for the brain to handle. Anyway I got to my Hostal and all was ok again after a shower and some Aqua mineral con gas and wine.  Sadly, Villadangos was almost dead, my Hostal seemed to be the only place in town, everything else was closed or derelict in comparison to the lovely little village I had passed through – Villar de Mazarife..

A day that taught me again today attention to the details in things, don’t get over excited about something that looks like t could be lovely and miss the small print and sometimes it is better to just go on an adventure. 

CAMINO GIFTS; walking a path that was beautiful and open and not on the highway, clouds to provide shade for most of the way, a lovely large room I could spread out in, seeing Jennie for dinner (lovely to connect), the amazing fact that every day I leave my hotel, the landscape and scenery I am presented with is completely different.