Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

MONDAY 27TH JUNE 2016 – ASTORGA TO RABANAL DEL CAMINO

Km’s walked – 22.0 ; Steps taken – 30729; flights – 10

“Blessed are those that see beautiful things in humble places where others see nothing.” Camille Pissarro

I woke up really early (not by choice), I got up opened my curtains and lay waiting for the sun to rise. Silly as I could have a had a longer stay in bed as we planned to leave Astorga late as we thought we deserved it and we hoped to visit the Gaudi (Bishops) Palace and he Gothic Catheral that majestically dominates the square. We ended up leaving at 9h30 instead of 10h00 as the Palace only opened at 11h00 (too late).  The cathedral was impressive inside, huge and free.

We made our way out of town, chatting intensely and not noticing the distance. It was still coolish and we were feeling good after our spa day yesterday and our late start. We got to 5.5kms relatively quickly, and stumbled on a cafe in Murias de Rechivaldo. A beautiful cafe (Bar Chris) with a lovely friendly woman that stamped our passports with such love. She happily sung along to the radio playing lots of songs I knew.  A great cafe con leche and a good rest for the weary feet, and then back on the road. The Pilgrim path was well marked and the landscapes around us were different yet again. Beautiful flowers everywhere to keep me focused on the beauty as there was no shade at all. When the sun is 30 degrees and there is no shade in sight those long windy “somewhat mysterious and lovely Pilgrims pathways”, can become scorching hot.  The whiteness of the gravel seems to attract the sun and heat. 

(Bar Cris)

At about 12h00 Jennie declared she was starving and needed to stop for food. I want hungary but was happy to stop for awhile, you never have to ask me twice to stop. We at down at a little cafe, Jennie ordered a borcadillo (big baguette) with fried eggs an I ordered sparkling water and a glass of wine.  Jen also wanted wine (yay, a partner in crime in the middle of the day). While Jennie ate, we collecte countries.  From the UK (Viginia and Jane – walking their third legs in three years), USA (lots of names and states can’t remember), Tomas from Norway, and then a young man from Canada called Kevin.

I mistook Kevin for Tomas and greeted him as such, and he told me in no uncertain terms that he was not Tomas, that he was Kevin and Tomas was down the road. He seemed a little lost, and lonely. I invited him to sit with us finishing glass two of wine (a real treat as we don’t do wine in the afternoon until walking is done for the day normally). He reluctantly said yes, he wanted the company but clearly also didn’t. We then all left and eh walked with us to Rabanal. Jennie spoke to him mostly, and I listened. Quite a serious complicated person, but it was like he needed us today.  It was one of those days we we were giving to the Camino.  We have received so much.  He seemed to need the company.

(Kevin from Canada)

When we left the little cafe, we still had 10kms to go and we were bold (Only ten….)! These ten kilometer were so long and the road was so hot, I thought I was frying under my hat. Now I know why we don’t stop and do two glasses of wine in the middle of a walk on a 30 degree day. Nevertheless, while Kevin talked to Jennie I walked and focused on the the beauty around me.  We were heading upwards into a more mountainous area as Brieley had warned us.  We passed some really “ghostly”, run down derelict villages, some with a little life, others not at all. Sad really.

About 2kms short of Rabanal we met up with David, his 18 year old daughter Hannah and Jim. All from Australia.  They were walking from Astorga to Santiago. Had a fun energized last few kilometers chatting to David as we climbed up towards Rabanal.

We checked in, lovely place, and went off to Vespers at 19h00 not the Santa Maria church.  We listened to the monks singing and chanting. For me the best church on the Camino. So simple no ornateness, not gold, just simple. (Sadly no pics). We ended the evening with an eleven euro three court (including wine, water and bread), delicious Pilgrim meal. We met Carina and Wayne (from UK, living in Australia), a couple that have been walking since Le Puy. They had Peter with them who had started in Switzerland.  Interesting evening! This was their third full Camino. I arranged to leave with them in the morning at 5h45.

A lovely day, with highs and lows, but beautiful people and lots of reflection between the coffee and wine stops.

CAMINO GIFTS; meeting more beautiful people, a waiter that gives me his phone with google translate ready so I can type in what I need (just priceless), the joy of being a gift to someone else today (Kevin needed someone) and the simple pleasure of listening to a friend (Jennie) tell you all about their future dreams