Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

WEDNESDAY 29TH JUNE AND THURSDAY 30TH JUNE 2016 – PONFERRADA TO VILLAFRANCE DEL BIERZO

Km’s walked on rest day – 8,84 (to cover the 6 from Tuesday, and my hotel was out of town); steps – 14093 ; flights – 9

Km’s walked on Thursday – 24,56 ; steps – 33804 ; flights – 22

“The most beautiful thing in the world is, of course, the world itself.” Wallace Stevens 

Although I was a bit put out that I had a rest day so soon after Leon, my rest in Ponferrada was perfect after the day through the mountains on Monday. Hotel Nirvana, was in fact nirvana. The rooms were modern and bright and big, and the whole place just had a lovely energy. I did in fact rest most of the time, except for doing my laundry, seeking out a massage and visiting the town and the Templar castle. My massage was much needed, albeit a little bit soft and tickly for me ( I like my massages to be quite hard and deep). Maria Theresa, the therapist could not speak a word of English, but charades and Spanglish did the trick. It was an hour of bliss.

(Maria Theresa – the massage therapist)

(Above and below – The Templar Castle in Ponferrada)

Ponferrada is a big town with almost 70000 people it is sort of a mix of old and new. After exploring the Templar Castle (which is free on Wednesdays – my lucky day , normally 8 Euros), I decided to find myself a Pilgrim lunch as I wasn’t venturing back into town later. I found a Pizzeria in the main square.  I felt like pizza. The restaurant had a full Italian menu, but also had a Pilgrim Menu for 11 Euro, which included a choice of starter, main, dessert, wine, bread and water. Bargain.  I had a mixed salad to start, a great anchovy, thin crusted pizza (half got taken back to my hotel with me for later) and more wine instead of dessert. I sat and ate and drank slowly while Pilgrims passed by, some sat down and briefly engaged, some moved on. 

While I was enjoying my second glass of rosado (rose), a couple arrived and sat down to order. She engages the table next to me and I heard her say she was from Alaska. I then said hello and told her I was from South Africa. She started saying how she would love to go to South Africa and would I like to join them. I hesitated as I wasn’t really sure and then I thought “what the hell!”  I joined Cachet and Javier. Javier is Spanish, speaks no English, Cachet is Alaskan and speaks no Spanish (well she speaks enough to get Javier to understand her). Cachet tells me her story.  She is a massage therapist and came on the Camino for three months before moving in with her ‘lover’ in Hawaii. He agreed to wait for her while she walked. A few weeks into her Camino he declares to her that he cheated on her and they break up.  She spends 6 days in a small village crying her eyes out, gets up one morning decides enough already and starts walking again. She is walking up into the mountains from Astorga and comes across a Shepherd  shuffling a flock of sheep into an enclosure with a little lamb in his arms, and she in her words “Falls in love at first sight!” Javier is the Shepherd ( he is gorgeous). She explains that they are in love and for two weeks they have spent time together “communicating with eyes, and heart”. She looks at him like he is unreal and he does the same and I remember when I fell in love with my handsome teacher.  A beautiful love story to end my rest day in Ponferrada. 

(Cachet and I – Javier would not be in a photo)

THURSDAY 30TH JUNE – PONFERRADA TO VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO 

(Sunrise just before my first cafe con leche)

I was up and out at 6h30 today.  I only had 22kms to do according to Brieley, but I knew it would be more, I slow wanted to beat the heat. Once I had exited the outskirts of Ponferrada, the scenery became so typical of the Camino again. Just beautiful, passing through old villages periodically.  Stopping for my first coffee at Columbrianos at a lovely cafe. I could feel I was climbing gently into the hills, and as I climbed the views and the landscapes just got greener and more beautiful. There were vines and cherry trees everywhere.  The cherries were out for the picking (I don’t like to pick fruit, I think it’s unfair to the farmers). Beautiful plump red cherries everywhere. I kept stopping to take photographs, it was so beautiful. Some vineyards had really old vines, others had newly planted rows of vines. Apparently the Bierzo wine they make in this area is special (I will try some tonight). 

Up and down, up and down with spectacular views to completely distract me from the heat. At some stage I met Bruno from Germany, Keke from Taiwan, Emma from the USA and Shaun from USA – San Francisco. Shaun recognized the Comrades logo on my shirt and proceeded to tell me he had run the Comrades in 2014. He then began telling everyone else he was walking with what Comrades was, and said he would be back to run for a silver some time. Shaun had started the Camino with the intention of running it in two weeks. He was averaging 65 kilometers a day ( couldn’t really tell he talks in miles), he got injured and now needs to walk the last 200 kms in four days.  Interesting character. The people you meet ……!

I walked into the beautiful village of Villafranca Del Bierzo just after 12h30. The village looks delightful, it seems it is a tourist destination too, not just for Pilgrims. It has a population of 3500, a lot for a remote little town in the mountains. My room overlooks a river and the mountains and I will climb again tomorrow with the Sound of music in my pocket and Dr Seuss in my soul.

(Villafranca Del Bierzo from the Bar I am having a G & T in)

My ritual when I get in is to have a large glass of sparkling water (which I either buy at a shop as I enter or at the place I am staying), and a glass of wine (also either bought from the hotel or out of my very heavy Babar), and then to unpack and organize myself (a bit OCD and ritualistic, but it works for me). Today I had my water and I had bought some wine and I proceeded to unlock my bag. No chance.  My Nine Euro combination lock would not open on the required Euro. I  tried several times. Eventually after a few attempts I went downstairs to ask for help. Well, I burst into tears, and I kept saying to the owner, that I was sorry and that I knew this was a small problem but I needed my bag open …….! She reassured me (thanks goodness she speaks really good English), that all would be fine and that someone would come up and help me.A very nice man did and he cut the lock off and normality was restored.

(The view from my bedroom window)

CAMINO GIFTS; more beauty wherever I look (how is it possible that everyday I walk, and it is just gets more beautiful and it is different everyday), the appreciation of all that surrounds me, the realization that I need to make sure  that I treasure every second of the next eight days as Santiago is coming closer, Celine Deon to keep me company in the vineyards, a kind stranger to help me open my locked bag.

The doors fascinate me.  The oldest most decrepit houses have interesting doors.  I love that your door makes a statement about your house and probably about you too. Watch this space Surrey road…..

What is really sad is you find all these abandoned houses amongst beautifully kept houses with flowers and love.  What happened to these people. How many Pilgrims have these places seen?  How is it possible that so many  what seem like could have been magnificent homes are deserted?