Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

“Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind” Seneca

Day 3 – 21st June – Barcelos to Ponte de Lima – 35kms

Total kms to date: 90 kms (excluding other walking)

Lizards seen: 35 (slow day)

Snakes seen: 3 (two small and one big – thank goodness all dead)

Pilgrims seen: 6

G&T’s to date: 5

Mojitos: 3 (unchanged)

Wine: still not counting

Ponte Medieval leaving Barcelos today

I was up and out by 6am as I had a 35 km day ahead of me. There was a gentle breeze and the day looked to be very promising. More than half of today was through “vineyards, Farms, and woodlands. Brierley the guru, describes this stage as the longest but arguably the most beautiful. And was he spot on. Just when I think it can’t get more beautiful it just keeps surprising me. Today’s walking brought little hill passes and some tough on the underfeet pathways, but wow, was it worth every hot, sticky, sore, soul soothing, spectacular step.

I actually saw a few Pilgrims today. A German couple, a Mom and her little daughter, A woman from California, and a few others that I saw from a distance. Interestingly we all acknowledged one another, but no one really wanted to talk. It was just one of those days.

It is probably time for you all to meet Turquoise Tina (TT). My new traveling companion. You may recall that I had Babar (the big red bag, named after the children’s book Elephant character). I decided to downsize (I know it doesn’t look like it, but next to Babar, TT does look much smaller). However TT weighs about 22 kgs. How did that even happen. SO, here i am making sure the baggage transport guys don’t see me. Thank goodness I leave early. But the funniest thing happened. There I am happily walking along a small country lane, when I see a Tuitrans (baggage company) van. I take a picture and decide to peer inside it, and there lying quietly waiting to be delivered is TT (18kms into my walking). I smiled and disappeared quickly before the guy saw me peering into his van. So today for the first part of my walk at least I was beating my TT. The other bag in the pic is Tinkerbell as you know. She is not as light as that at all, but she is my daily companion. Not the most practical backpack, but she now has so much meaning that i just cant swop her.

Today’s walking was so varied, and it felt like being back on my original Camino. Very quiet, green, flowers everywhere, old deserted houses in almost every little village. Again I kept wondering what stories those ruins could tell and what history they have.

I had completed 22 kms by 12h30 and was feeling quite good. And it had been overcast most of the morning so that was great. The remaining 12kms was challenging as the sun was scorching hot. I am sure the sun is hotter here than at home, it feels like you are frying. Fortunately the views and the pathways made up for it, and I had a couple of butterflies (“angels” from someone) with me most of the way.

At some stage I stumbled onto an old Roman bridge, and there were two woman washing their family clothes in the river right under the bridge. It was crystal clear water. I wonder if that’s because they don’t have water in their homes, or if that’s just how its always been done so why change?

Entering the town of Ponto de Lima for the last 3kms or so was just breathtaking. The Lima river on the left and trees and woods and the cooling sound of water. This is by far one of the prettiest towns i have seen on my Camino travels. So photogenic and friendly. It started raining as I got into town and I had to tear myself away from everything I wanted photos of to find shelter.

My hotel, Merceria da Vila is charming. The host who was born in the “house” was just as gracious. He tells me the house has been in his family for four generations (or i think that is what he said). I asked for a glass of green wine, he said no he doesn’t serve wine and I have to go out to get some. Five minutes later he arrives with a bottle of Vinho Verde for me, opens it and i think explains he found it in his fridge. No charge.

Once I had settled in I went for a walk in the town (short one, my feet are sore). Wow, wow, wow. Then dinner at a lovely restaurant with views of the bridge and the river. Raining as I eat my salmon and sip my G&T.

The pic above is the view from my window.

A long day of just simply enjoying my walking. Very little thinking today, just singing and walking and just being again. That heaviness got even lighter today as I found more spring in my step. Loved playing with my shadows, missed it when it was overcast. Loved finding more postboxes, flowers and ruins to snap. Too many selfies , but what the heck, I have to be in some pics, else you’ll all think I am actually armchair traveling. A lovely, peaceful, soulful day. Quote of the day quite appropriate.

Gifts today; overcast weather until 12h30; my first coffee since getting here (not great but necessary); helpful locals pointing me in the direction of the arrows when I was looking a bit lost; a gracious host gifting me with a bottle of Vinho Verde; a spectacular sunset over Ponte de Lima;

What will tomorrow bring? Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes (accent missing). Only 19 kms, but a steep hill to climb. Off to bed now. Alarm set for 5am.