Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

“It feels good to be lost in the right direction!” Unknown

I spent a day and a half in Le Puy-en-Velay the starting point of the Via Podensis as the route is also known. What a quirky, enchanting town. Le Puy is an ancient town in a volcanic landscape, dominated by rocky peaks rising from the valley floor. One is beautifully crowned by the chapel of St Michel d’ Aiguilhe. Climbing the 269 steps to visit it was worth every step. the frescoes in the chapel are outstanding and the chapel apparently dates back to AD961 when The Bishop of Le Puy had it built after his first Pilgrimage to Santiago.

Another prominent feature of the town is the statue of Notre Dame. It dominates the town and even overlooks the chapel at an altitude of 757 meters. It was by all accounts made from 213 canon balls seized from the Russians in the Crimean war, and given to the town by Napoleon III. It is a magnificent statue that stands 22.70 meters high and weighs 835 tons.

The town is really lovely. The Notre Dame Cathedral from which the Pilgrims leave daily is a true French church, grand in every way, but this one is perched on top of a hill and opens a big trap door thing every morning so that the pilgrims can dramatically exit from the cathedral onto the the path. The Cathedral is also home to the Black Virgin who apparently plays a huge role in the life of the cathedral and has robes for every liturgical event or situation.

The Cloisters of the cathedral date back to the 12th Century and are spectacular and really peaceful.

Le Puy has been a pilgrimage Centre since the Middle Ages more even as a pilgrimage destination than simply a starting point. These began in the 10th Century.

A great way to ease into the big walk to come.

Day one Le Puy-en-Valey to Saint Privat-d’Allier – 25 km’s to follow later.