Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

11 May 2022

“All truly great thoughts are conceived while walking.” Frederick Nietzsche

Day 5 – Aumont Aubrac to Nasbinals

28.2kms and 41401 steps : cumulative – 129,87 and 198 118 steps

We had a rest day on the 10th and it was fabulous. Much needed after just over 100 kms in four days. I wasn’t happy at first that we had a rest day after day four but it was heaven sent. I spent the time going my washing and blog and resting my feet. Very important.

We also found a little place called Restaurant Le Pause that we went to twice while I’m Aumont Aubrac just because it was so lovely and the food so delicious. Veronique the owner was so charming and lovely. She offered us a digestive both nights that was special. It really was tasty.

Day five started early for me I had arranged to pack myself an early breakfast of croissant and honey and baguette and cheese. I was off and out by 7h30. Not as early as I would like but they don’t do anything here before 7h30 unless you’re Sgt Major Jesus!

If the last four days of walking were defined by fields of flowers as the stars of the show, today is all about the stone walls. The walk was through rural farmlands with pastures separated by these ancient stone walls. They completely captivated me. It was an overcast day and everything looked gloomyish but these stone walls were calling me.

I found myself walking and wondering who built them, how old they are and how long they have simply just stood the test of weather, animals and humans. Everywhere I look for miles ahead I just see these stone walls. They must have so many stories to tell.

You may recall on the last big Camino I took to “collecting counties”! I would introduce myself and ask people where they are from. I met so many people from so many different countries. On this Camino I barely see a soul (not a complaint, just a difference). Today as I was finishing having my breakfast I met an Aubrac cow who decided I was sitting way too close to her fence for comfort. I got quite worried as suddenly there were a few of them poking their heads through the fence and trying to see me. When have you ever been scared of a cow?

Shortly after the cow backed off and I was packing up, Ivan from Quebec Canada walked up to me and said hello. He spoke a tad of English, way more than my French and we walked together for awhile. It was the first person after Lindsay that I had walked with so it was fun to chat for awhile. Turns out that years ago he went to Cape Town To study English. He seemed nice. We ran out of words, but lovely to collect at least another country. So Scotland and Canada.

The walking today is simply breathtaking. There is no shade, but it’s rolling hill after rolling hill of green pastures and stone walls everywhere. The wild flowers are like a extravaganza of bouquets dancing everywhere. I just can’t get enough. At some point I had to climb over a ladder or two to get to the next pasture. A truly remarkable day.

I wander into Nasbinals at around 16h00. I’m tired and weary and so joyful. The day has been good and my heart is full.

The hotel we’re at is lovely, my room overlooks the church on the square. We’re on a dinner, bed and breakfast package so we’re due for dinner at 19h15. Another absolutely delectable dinner. Grilled tomato and meatballs to start, slow cooked oxtail with Aligot (wait for it!). A regional speciality of three times sieved potatoes with this thick thick rich cheese stirred in. Wow! Soooooo freaking delicious. Followed by a cheeseboard the size of a house.

Camino gifts today

– the endless pastures of beauty wherever I looked

– my feet holding up well despite being sore and burny underneath

– bumping into some new Pilgrims I could talk with

– a beautiful hotel with a scrumptious meal

– the bubbling joy I feel in my heart with every step

– those cuckoos reminding me I can do it