Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

“But the beauty is in the walking – – we are betrayed by destinations.” Gwyn Thomas

Day 7 – St Chely d’Aubrac to Espalion

28,98 kms and 42 203 steps – Total to date; 176,48kms and 265 503 steps

I have been somewhat neglectful of my blog as very long days of walking and limited Wi-Fi have prevented me from taking the time out to do this. And as I scroll through my photos from Friday 13th May – Day 7 of walking, I am again reminded of how easy it is to get a bit blasé when walking and not reflecting each day on the journey. The fatigue at the end of the day prevents me blogging but I need to and want to make more conscious notes of these big moments. My immediate memory says Friday was tough, my photos remind me that it was a spectacularly beautiful day. A day filled with flowers, trees, shade, a 2CV, meeting Camino Family for the last grueling 14kms and a walk through one of the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (most beautiful villages in France).

The day started with a gentle climb through a shaded forest and I recall thinking how fortunate it’s shady as it’s hot and the forest floor was filled with leaves so it was soft under my feet and I needed that as my feet are burney underneath. I saw a few Pilgrims early on who rushed past me as though on a race track, but for at least 8 kms I was pretty much alone. Again, as I have come to learn the territory is marked by ups and downs and hills and valleys.

I get to the top of a hill coming out of a forest at some stage and I notice the Pilgrims from earlier walking up a little path, I instinctively follow them, out of the corner of my eye I see a red and white cross, but I continue for a few minutes and then decide to turn around, as I do this all the Pilgrims at the op of the hill around realizing they had taken a wrong path. Like sheep we all just follow one another. I had a good giggle. I continued on and a few minutes later took another detour with two older Germans from Stuttgard, Manffred and Godfried, who didn’t really want to engage, although I established they were brothers. I heard calling and turned to find John and Jane the 70 year olds telling us we had gone the wrong way. I thanked them profusely and John said “It’s ok I needed to make up for leading you all up the wrong way just now especially up a huge hill….!” And off they jack rabbitted, putting this Fifty something to shame. Later I met a woman from Montpellier, Isabel and her friend Christine. She spoke really good English and chatted to me for about 20 mins. She had expressed the desire to visit Cape Town, I of course marketed South Africa as I do.

At lunchtime I get into St Come d’Olt one of the contenders for the most beautiful villages of France thing and I am simply blown away by how pretty it is and I “compelled” to stop off and have a glass of rosé. After all I have walked nearly 16 kms I can do this little break in this historic Village. I am wondering around and I bump into Mike and Jane from Sydney. Such a delightful couple. I love how he smiles at her and quietly encourages her (makes me a little sad my Wa isn’t here). I tell them I am off to have a glass of compulsory rosé and would they like to join me. Fortunately they were waiting for the pharmacy to open so it was a relatively easy decision.

The rosé was delicious and I think carried me through the next 14 kms. The path was tough into Espalion. Lots of rocky ups and downs and glorious views to take in. Very hot and thank goodness lots of shade. I of course had to haul out my Sound of Music soundtrack at some stage, which made me happy and seemed to make Mike and Jane and Jennie happy too. Nothing like singing along to “These are a few of my favorite things!”

I would be untruthful if I even pretended it was vaguely easy. It was tough and at least 3,5 kms longer than the maps stated. So wandering into Espalion we were all a little groggy and travel weary. It was already 17h45 and we needed to find our accommodation too. Which just by the way ended up being all the way up a freaking 1,5km hill. We were ‘cursing’ and grumpy and wondering what on earth Follow the Camino our Company was thinking. Then we walked into the Chambre d’hotes. Greeted by Sylvie the owner and host with ice cold water and the most eclectic rooms with views for miles and miles. AND a SWIM in pool. Yay! Yay! Yippee.

We did have to go into town for supper and that seemed so hard to do, then Sylvie offered to take us down and fetch us. Bonus! She recommended two places. We chose the Pizzeria and it was amazing. I had pizza for two days after.

Camino Gifts

– Another absolutely beautiful day of views and scenery

– A glimpse at St Come d’Olt

– Meeting up with Mike and Jane and walking with them through some tough kilometers

– The willpower to continue and with a smile through tough terrain

– A delightful Chambres d’hotes and Hostess Sylvie and a SWIMMING POOL for my weary body

– A delicious pizza and an Aperol Spritz to end the long hard day