Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

26 May to 29th May 2022

“The bigger the obstacle, the greater the glory in overcoming it” Molière

Due to WiFi connections and various other technical challenges a few days are in one post. Enjoy!

Day 17 – 26th May – Lauzerte to Mossaic – 30.8kms – steps: 49680

Day 18 – 27th May – Mossaic to Auvillar – 20.1kms – steps: 32 421

Day 19 – 28th May -Auvillar to Lectoure – 34.5kms – steps: 55 648

Day 20 – 29th May – Lectoure to Condom – 28.5kms – steps: 42 384

Total kilometers walked up to 29th May 2022 = 519kms

Total steps taken up to 29th May 2022 = 800 472 steps

Total number of hours walked to 29th May 2022 = 139 hours

Now, even if I have to say so myself, those are some impressive stats. We have walked through valleys, hills, mountains, farms, forests, towns, hamlets, a few industrial areas (not many) and along canals and rivers. The underfoot terrain has been mostly rough and stony and rocky and has taken it’s toll on my feet. My little feet feel rough and sore and a little abused. I take good care of them every day but they are crying out for love and rest. I have had to ask for my “old” walking shoes to be DHL’s to me at my next stop on Friday, as I have a week of 30 plus kilometer days coming up and the Pyrenees. Obstacles have become something that do not exist for me.

The quote today comes from a little card I came across in one of the forests we walked through. We have been seeing these little cards all in French since at least Aumont Aubrac. They are clearly new and recently placed along the Way as they are not spoilt by weather and still look very good. I see approximately four a day if walking through any kind of foresty area. Someone has firstly taken all this time to make them and then to walk with them and place them in strategic areas. One always pops up when I need it. I never take them, I leave them for the next Pilgrim, although I have noticed walking behind some Pilgrims they don’t even take note of them. I decide on Day 17 on the walk to Mossaic (that took forever) that if I saw one I was going to take it as my bookmark and inspiration for the rest of the Way. And it ended up being this one about obstacles.

The walk to Mossaic was long (30.8kms) and I would say probably stands out because of all the trees I saw that day. Everything from Walnut trees, Cherry trees, Chestnut trees to Pine trees, Cottonwood trees (which make me sneeze), to Napoleon trees (my word for Plaine trees). Trees everywhere. When I eventually reached my Hotel, at Le Pont Napoleon Hotel, it was lovely and I didn’t have to go out to find dinner, it was served. It was Jambon and Bruschetta to start, Fish and vegetables for Ian and a lovely creamy ice cream mousse for dessert.

Lots of the day spent thinking about when Warwick and I dipped into the route in 2019.

Day 18 – Mossaic to Auvillar

We had an amazing easy walking morning along the canal under the shade of the Napoleon trees (Planes). Lovely walking except for constantly stepping aside for speedy cyclists. We got to Pommevic where we needed to turn off away from the Canal and reached a Bar calling our name or was already 12kms in my feet needed rest. Bar L’drop was filled with Pilgrims refueling outside on the patio and locals inside refueling. We eventually got “talking” to Tonton the owner who it turns out is a rugby coach. Jennie tells them I’m from Afrique du Sud, and they say “Springbok!” We end up writing on the wall of the bar a place especially opened up for us and as we’re about to leave we have two glasses of rosé thrust in our hands. We laugh and accept gracefully. Tonton says to Jennie in French “It’s only 5kms to Auvillar but it could be 7kms after three glasses of rosé!” He howls with laughter and I tell Jennie that we will become the new town story. Two Pilgrim women drinking rosé all afternoon who never made it to Auvillar…….!

We met up with Claude from Strasbourg again he walks like a giant locust his legs are so long. I wish I could speak French, I really like him. I see Jacques again who I’ve seen often since Le Puy.

We reach Auvillar after 4pm way too late for a 20km easy canal walk but we had a beautiful encounter. Jennie says “I loved that, it would never have happened if you were not with me!” I assure her it’s her French that got us the interaction and she says “I wouldn’t have stopped!”

We check in at Hotel Horloge a lovely place I’ve stayed before. Dinner with Ann and Charles and Dave and a late evening walk around the village.

Day 19 – Auvillar to Lectoure

I leave at 6h20. I bump into Michael and Willie from Germany as I step out of the hotel. They know a bakery just 50 m away that will serve cafe and pastries at 6h30. I decide to wait with them. I buy a delicious double espresso and wait for it a pain au chocolat or chochlatine as they call it here. Delicious! I’ve been missing out for so long. Dark chocolate encased in pure butter pastry. Thank goodness I don’t have a sweet tooth. I’d be in trouble!

It’s a long long long unshaded walk to Lectoure. Beautiful as for every day but long. It’s hot and I’m sweaty. I’m longing for the pool at the hotel. I meet Claude again. He’s on like kilometer 1500 already! He smiles from ear to ear and walks on like a Trojan! His smile just makes me smile. A delightful human.

I walk through farm after farm, field after field. I think I must see 10 cats during the day. All doing their thing. I eventually see Lectoure in the distance. I have learnt through running and the first Camino that one should not be seduced by the site of a town or the end as it messes with your brain. But yet I still do it. I can see the towers in Lectoure I can almost touch them, but in 33 degree heat they are still 4 kms away. Grrrrrr!

I reach our hotel for the night. Hotel le Bastard. A Relais hotel. A bit smart. It has a pool in the middle of a medieval town. I get the kiddie room in the attic but I’m in the pool within 20 mins and loving it. We ate in town as the cheapest menu de saison at the hotel was €42. Not for these poor Pilgrims.

Day 20 – Lectoure to Condom

Jennie and I left early use for Condom as we had a way to go. And it was to be hot. The walk to Condom was lovely. we saw a few familiar Pilgrims along the way starting with Jacques who we’d seen many times.

As we meet Jacques he points out to us that the Pyrenees are out there and because it’s clear we can see them. They are called with snow. I tried to take a pic but it was a bit far. In a few days we will be crossing those mountains. For a good while we walked and could see the Pyrenees to our left.

A beautiful quiet walk to Condom. Jennie and I walking together but not together both lost in our own thoughts at times talking some times. Beautiful walk through forests and farmlands and vineyards. We’re looking forward to a rest day in Condom. We will have clicked over 160 kms in six days by the end of the day.

Nine kilometers in we stop in a little village to rest feet and get some coffee. Many Pilgrims around. We then hear music and Michael is playing Pilgrim songs on his Ukulele. We thought he was a Pilgrim but it turns out he was a busker.

Camino gifts

– the joy of walking and feeling like I’ve got this

– the fact that my shoes are holding up even though cracking t the bottom

– the pure pleasure of a rest day

– the joy of discovering Armagnac

– the happiness I feel when I see the Pilgrims I’ve come to “know” – unconditional acceptance of who they are and where they come from

– the delight people express when I say I’ve from South Africa

– the realization that it’s ok not to be ok every day. This is a tough physical challenge

– pure gratitude for all I have and who I have in my life