Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

31st May, 1st and 2nd June 2022

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” Gustave Flaubert

31st May – Day 21 – Condom to Montreal de Gers – 20kms

1st June – Day 22 – Montreal to Eauze – 17.3kms

2nd June – Day 23 – Eauze to Novaro – 21kms

Total kms walked: 578kms

Total steps walked: 891 604

Total hours walking: 153

The Singing Pilgrim

A quick change to my post about the singing Pilgrim. He is a Pilgrim not a busker. His name is Guy (French way) and he sings lovely little Pilgrim sings along the way and gets people to join in. His Facebook book page is called On Chante Ensembles and we’re on it. He’s rather charming. Those shorts come in many colours.

Day 21 Condom to Montreal

We only had a short way to go so we had a leisurely breakfast and left Condom around 8h30. we’d decided to take a slight detour to Larressingle, a tiny fortified, walked medieval town. Well worth the detour. It is clearly normally quite busy as there were many closed restaurants, but we were happy to have it all to ourselves. I am still in awe of how these structures still stand after so many many years. And they look good.

I’m thinking a lot about how fast time is going. It seems to be flying by. The disciplines and routines of the day seem to come around so quickly. it’s crazy how long you look forward to something and then how fast it flies by. I have been savoring every moment from day one but now I’m trying to slow myself down a bit. Only 13 or so days of walking left. How did that even happen?

The trail has flattened out and I guess I am accustomed to the ups and downs and the rough pathways. My feet are much more sore than they have ever been but I am loving the daily ritual of walking. I have a daily destination, I have a bed, I have a meal waiting and of course Priscilla and Daisy are waiting too with all my provisions. Namely, snacks and Gin and Tonic. The first thing I ask for as I walk in the door is a glass of ice. Two actually, as I always make one for Jennie too.

My mind is quiet as I walk and I hear only the birds and and the sound of nature. I am content and at peace with myself and the world. Now and again I think of something for work and I leave a voice note that may only be picked up in 6 or 7 hours but I get the thought out of head and focus on the beauty around me.

The couple hosting us at La Couloume tonight are lovely. Walter (whose Dutch) and his wife Annique whose French. Lovely meal of pasta salad to start, local sausage and potatoes used to make the most awesome frites. And an apricot tart. Tomorrow I choose wine over dessert. I can’t keep having both.

Day 22 – Montreal to Eauze

The walk from Montreal to Eauze was fun and easy. Mostly flat, mostly through beautiful forest with shaded canopies in 35 deg heat. Bonus!

We stumble upon a Cafe. But it’s all on honesty. Serve yourself. I am still gobsmacked by this. It wouldn’t happen in South Africa. We sit for awhile and eat our snacks. Jennie buys a Perrier. Then Guy and his friends come along and we learn that he’s a Pilgrim not a busker and us going along the way singing with everyone and recording it fir his Facebook page. Charming man. We will keep meeting him and his wife Corrine for the next few days!

In Condom we briefly met a Texan couple, Betsy and George. We bumped into them again today at the hotel Henry IV and invited them to sit with us at dinner. Delightful couple. Eager to visit Cape Town. We enjoyed getting to know them. New friends on the Camino.

The hotel was awesome. Newly redone, gorgeous rooms. Everything updated and new. Attentive staff. Delicious meal of jambon salad and confit duck with duck fat fried frites- yes!!!! Too much! Too delicious.

Day 23 – Eauze to Novaro

The day started cloudy and was so until around 13h00 about an hour before I hit my destination. I was very grateful and kept singing the “Thank you father ….” Song. Beautiful scenery, a lovely walking track and yet again a gorgeous hotel on my arrival in Novaro with another delightful meal.

Walked alone from around 3kms. Met a Pilgrim from Switzerland, Rolfe who’s walked from Home. More than a 1000kms. Smiling like there’s no tomorrow. Wish I could speak French. Saw Guy and his crew again and of course Betsy and George. Lovely walking mostly flat, mostly in shade. Can’t ask for more than that! Cloudy, shady, and flat!

Got to our hotel Hotel d’Commerces at around 14h00. Always a pleasure to get in early even when I beat Priscilla and Daisy to the hotel. It still feels like a half rest day.

Dinner at the hotel. Salad and goats cheese tart to start, roast chicken and potatoes au gratin for main. Rosé of course. Topped off with my new favourite Armagnac. Yum.

The route is so well marked and the thought that has gone into trying to put us in shade at appropriate times is amazing. Obviously we’re “not walking in the footsteps of the medieval Pilgrims” like you do on March of the Spanish route bizarrely called the French Way. The GR 65 which is The official path to follow to Santiago on the Le Puy-en-Valey route is very professional and well laid out. It’s got toilets for the first 400kms every 5 to 8kms. Interesting contrast with Spain. More on that in another post.

Another beautiful few days. Filled with blessings and Camino gifts and angels.

Camino gifts and treasures

– my body holding up and cooperating day after day

– the delightful delicious food we are presented with each night. We hardly have to think about a thing

– the intense return of the deep sense of gratitude and love for all I have and all the people I love. I’m always grateful and the Camino reminds you just how important it is

– the absolute blessing of the weather simply working in my favour. Breezes when I need them, shade when I need it most and only little drops of rain when it does rain