Finding treasure on the Camino de Santiago

5th to 9th June 2022

“Kindness is free. Sprinkle it everywhere!” Anon

Day 25 – Aire sur L’Adore to Arzacq Arraziguet (AA) – 33.5kms

Day 26 – Arzarq Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Bearn – 30.9kms

Day 27 – Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx- 36kms

Day 28 – Navarrenx to St Palais (taxi for 20 kms) – walk – 10.3kms

Day 29 – St Palais to Larceveau – 15.4kms

Totals: 731kms. 1 131 420 steps. 191 hours

The Butterfly Centre Fund – R52 000.00

It’s been five days of lots of numbers. Lots of kilometers, more than a million steps, nearly 200 hours of walking and MOST IMPORTANTLY the raising of R52k for The Butterfly Centre. It’s been muggy weather (which I’m most grateful for as opposed to blazing hot weather), and there are even fewer Pilgrims than in the beginning. The distances were long for three days and digging deep was required. And thinking about getting to the R50k fundraiser goal catapulted me forward many a time.

Kindness is such a lovely thing and it doesn’t mean you have to physically give something to be kind. Kindness is being caring, compassionate, authentic, generous with your time and your positive spirit. It’s encouraging people when they’re having a tough day, (as we Pilgrims do for one another), it’s supporting from the sidelines with a gentle smile or word, it’s simply a quick message of support expecting nothing in return, it’s showing up for someone when the going gets tough, it’s being consistent with your care and it’s above all free! It requires nothing to be kind. I know I sprinkle it everywhere and don’t expect anything in return ever and it often comes back to me in good karma. And I’ve met so many Pilgrims along the way who have sprinkled it back too.

To those that have been kind by physically donating, thank you. Thank you not just for your donation but for your inspiring messages and interest. To those that have been quietly supporting me from the sidelines and encouraging me as I go thank you thank you thank you! I didn’t set out to do this journey for a NPO, I set out doing it for me. I got the crazy idea to try and support The Butterfly Centre a week or two before I left. So many people had been asking if I was walking for a cause and to keep them posted if I did. Thank you for encouraging me to do it. Thank you for pushing me to sprinkle that kindness!

Day 25 – Aire sur l’Adore to Arzacq Arraziguet

Started out really early, it was to be a long day with 33kms showing on the map. Within the first three minutes there was a hill to climb, surprise! Then a beautiful lake and a walk through a forest next to the lake. It was 6h40 and I have to say being South African I felt very vulnerable going into the depths of the forest all on my own. I reminded myself fast that I’m not at home and put my shoulders back and walked! Just beautiful.

Along the way I met Steve an Irishman whose lived in France for 33 years and Warren and Cassie. Warren is English , and Chessie Chinese. They have been in France for many many years living in Normandy. As for most French people we meet doing the route. they are doing two or three weeks of it or whatever they can fit into their vacation time. They come back every year to complete a part. It was lovely to meet people after a very quiet morning and to walk the afternoon with them was a pleasure, as it was long and hot. Those last 7kms can feel like 70 in the afternoon. It takes discipline and strong self talk to remain focused on how beautiful everything is why you’re here! But hey a few hours of talking about Cape Town or Toulouse shaves the kilometers off at pace.

We walked into Arzacq-Arraziguet at 16h15. I found my gorgeous hotel immediately and was met by Jean Pierre. He clearly made sure his place was as he would like a place to be for himself. The attention to detail, a gown, sweets in the room, fruit in the room, tissues, a hairdryer, lovely soaps and hand cream. Dinner was exquisite. Prepared by him served on beautiful crockery and real silverware. a real treat at the end of a long day. He even had a gown in the room. Now that’s attention to detail. I always travel with my own gown (crazy Pilgrim that I am) but not having to unpack my own was luxurious. The little things …… mmmmm!

Day 26 – AA to Arthez-de-Bearn

I left earlier than Jennie again as we had a 30 plus km day. Found myself singing along to Rocky Horror soundtracks and at about 5kms in met up with Maureen from Australia and Christof from France. I walked rapidly with them until about 8kms then We all went our separate ways. Beautiful scenery, lovely terrain and just being one with the path as I walked.

At about 20 kms I stopped for a lunch break of sliced cucumbers and tomatoes with some sheep 🐑 cheese. And as I was about to eat along came Jennie. We had been anxious about finding our accomodation as it was written up as an apartment and we were insure where to go, who would meet us and how our baggage would be received?

Approaching the village I asked a woman if she knew our place, I understood her to say it’s on the road we’re on and to carry on. I of course was looking at house numbers and as we approached no 30 Rue Blah Blah we rang the bell, knowing instinctively it was wrong. After awhile an old woman came out in a house coat and in the most beautiful gracious manner (somewhat surprised as I think we’d woken her from her afternoon siesta), she directed us to where we needed to be. I think she’s still wondering why we rang her doorbell. It turns out we were on the right road but still 3 kms out! We reached our little self catering Gité owned by Stephanie and it was fabulous.

It turns out it was a public holiday that day, Penticost day??? So no places open for dinner. However we found a takeaway Pizza place. We got delicious pizzas for dinner and I had a bottle of Rosé in Daisy (Now named the Mary Poppins Bag) as it produces all kinds of lovely stuff). Lovely accomodation, delicious dinner, awesome hosts. Lovely sleep. Wow. Am I lucky or what?

Day 27 – Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx- 36kms

I started half an hour before Jennie and she still managed to get to Navarrenx before me. It started raining quite consistently 6 kms into the walk. I decided to continue to next village in the rain. I found a café in the village and then I missed Jennie. I ended up walking the whole route on my own. Spectacular but loooooong!

Day 28 and 29 Navarrenx to Larceveau

Due to some weird happenings, I walked the 36 kms to Navarrenx and sometime during the day I discovered that St Palais where we were headed for day 28 was off the route and not way marked and completely isolated without any water or support and was meant to be 33kms. That evening at dinner we decided to taxi to St Palais instead of walking. We went to bed with happy hearts that we did not need to walk another 33 km day. Betsy and George offered a ride in their taxi so we jumped at it. We walked 12 kms in that day and rested the rest.

On day 29 to Larceveau we’d already walked halfway there the day before so we were excited. We we’re getting closer to St Jean and the landscape was changing so radically. And all the signage too.

Walking to Larceveau on Thursday was a breeze and beautiful. Jennie and I walked together we stopped in Ostabat-Asme for a rosé or three and finished the last three kilometers a little later. We still beat our bags to the Hotel.

The walk was beautiful and it felt like we were walking into the mountains. The awareness that the journey was ending was sitting with both of us. Lots of silent walking. Lots of reflecting. Every now and again one of us would throw in a memory from the last five weeks.

Camino gifts

– the blessing of being able to walk three 30 plus kilometer days without a problem – wow!

– the gift of walking for two days with Jennie

– the gift of recognizing that it’s ok to say we’re not going that way we’re getting in a taxi to start where we’re meant to

– the joy of really being in the walking groove and just loving it

– the kindness of everyone in my life in all it’s forms – personal support, faith, NPO support, inspiring messages and pure love

Remember to be kind and true and sprinkle that stuff everywhere never mind the cynics! 😎😎😎😎